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This hero ingredient can help you break the breakthrough

If you are struggling with acne and acne-prone skin, you may have heard of benzoyl peroxide. This traditional skin care ingredient is widely touted as an effective skin cleansing therapy: in fact, recent studies have shown that it is one of the top ten popular skin care ingredients in 2020.

In other words, it is not as common in off-the-shelf products as some other acne-reducing ingredients (such as salicylic acid), leading to confusion about where to get it and how to clean the skin.

Here, we have invited skin care experts to answer your most frequently asked questions about benzoyl peroxide, so you can finally get rid of acne.

"Benzoyl peroxide is an organic peroxide that acts as a non-specific oxidant," explained Dr. Emma Cunningham. "In simple terms, it helps destroy bacteria by releasing oxygen on the skin." The special thing about benzoyl peroxide is that bacteria are not easily resistant to it, just like antibiotics, so you can use it if needed It takes longer.

You will often find ingredients in gel form as spot treatment, but it can also be used in liquid washes or creams (usually in lower concentrations). Some body products that directly target acne also contain benzoyl peroxide, and some exfoliating formulas designed to treat clogged pores also contain benzoyl peroxide.

"All the best acne treatments work through multiple actions, and benzoyl peroxide is no exception," said Dr. Sam Bunting, a cosmetic dermatologist and founder of Dr Sam's. "First of all, it has a bactericidal effect, which means it can reduce the number of bacteria on the surface of the skin."

"It also has an anti-inflammatory effect (great for acne, which is an inflammatory skin disease) and helps unclog the pores. In fact, this means that it reduces the appearance of angry red spots and prevents the appearance of new ones. "

Paula Begoun, the skincare expert and founder of Paula's Choice, agrees. "Benzoyl peroxide is considered to be one of the most effective over-the-counter options for reducing acne-causing bacteria and combating acne-induced inflammation. It can quickly control acne because it breaks down into oxygen on the skin, reducing the amount of Proliferation of a type of bacteria (called Propionibacterium acnes) that plays a key role in the form of acne."

“The concentration of benzoyl peroxide is between 2.5% and 10%,” Begoun explained. “A 10% concentration of benzoyl peroxide is generally considered too irritating and may cause side effects, such as dry skin, Peeling and more acne may occur. I recommend starting with 2.5% concentration twice a day and then waiting for a few weeks to see how your acne reacts."

"Then, if you don't see the desired result, please adjust the concentration to 5%," Begoun continued. "Research shows that this strength is as effective as a 10% concentration, but there is no risk of obvious side effects."

Remember, whether you have allergies or not, it is important to follow the golden rule of skin care active ingredients: start with a lower percentage, and then gradually increase to avoid irritation.

Unlike other active acne treatments (such as retinoic acid), in the UK, you can get benzoyl peroxide without a prescription. However, this does not mean that you will often find it on the shelf.

Instead, “it can be purchased over the counter under the guidance of a pharmacist,” explained Dr. Bunting. She recommends the sale of Acnecide 5% gel, which can be purchased at Boots Pharmacy.

However, if you want or need a benzoyl peroxide formulation that also contains antibiotics, or if you need a higher dose, you need to consult your doctor about the prescription.

Benzoyl peroxide is considered to be an excellent anti-acne ingredient for all skin tones: although you may see the word "peroxide" and consider it as a bleaching agent, this ingredient is not considered to brighten the skin Effect.

In other words, for anyone with darker skin tones, it is especially important to start with the lowest available percentage. This is because any active substance that can cause high doses of irritation or inflammation, including benzoyl peroxide, may increase the risk of hyperpigmentation after inflammation.

In addition, “benzoyl peroxide can bleach or discolor hair, clothes, towels, and bedding, so be careful when performing treatments,” said Dr. Mahsa Saleki, an esthetician and founder of SAS Aesthetics.

"If you have mild acne, you can choose a gel containing about 5% benzoyl peroxide, or about 2.5% facial cleanser. For example, if you are experiencing an outbreak of whiteheads, an acid facial cleanser can be useful ," said Dr. Adam Friedmann, chief consultant dermatologist at Stratum Dermatology Clinics. "If your acne is more severe, then it is best to use benzoyl peroxide as part of other treatments, such as topical tretinoin or antibiotics."

If you need the latter, Dr. Bunting recommends using the "Epiduo prescription" (which combines benzoyl peroxide and adapalene, which is a type of tretinoin) or combining BPO with antibiotics (such as clindamycin or erythromycin) ) Matching formulas to enhance its antibacterial effect". You need to discuss these options with your GP or dermatologist.

"If you use a higher percentage of benzoyl peroxide, you should apply the product directly to the affected skin area," said Dr. Saleki. "Wash the area with cleanser and water, then pat the skin dry. Then, apply a thin layer of gel to the affected area and let it soak," she said. "You usually use the gel once or twice a day. If you have sensitive skin, use the gel once a day before going to bed."

"As part of a regular skin care routine, over-the-counter exfoliants or products with lower levels of lotions can be used up to two times a day," said Dr. Saleki. "Wet your face or the area you want to treat, then smooth it with a small amount of product. Leave the lotion on the skin for no more than 1 to 2 minutes, then rinse your face thoroughly with water. Pat your skin dry gently . You usually use the lotion 1 to 2 times a day."

Begoun said: "Adding 2% BHA (also known as salicylic acid) leave-in exfoliants to your daily work can make the world completely different, especially if you have persistent mild to moderate acne. She recommends her anti-acne line called Clear, which contains BHA products.

"BPO is very effective in treating active acne lesions and preventing new acne lesions, especially when combined with retinoids and/or salicylic acid," Dr. Cunningham agreed. "In my clinic, my main recommendation for benzoyl peroxide is Obagi ClenzidermMD treatment lotion."

"In the past, people thought that benzoyl peroxide could not be used with retinoids (such as pure retinol or retinoic acid), but a 2010 study showed that benzoyl peroxide is unlikely to degrade any form of vitamin A. ," Begoun suggested.

In other words, you should avoid using benzoyl peroxide which contains a lot of other active substances. If you have any questions or concerns, please consult your doctor or pharmacist. This is especially true if you are prone to allergies, as BPO can cause dryness.

"Do not use benzoyl peroxide with any other drugs that may have a dry or irritating effect on the skin, including alcohol-based skin care products," said Dr. Saleki. Instead, replace these treatments (which may actually do more harm than good) for the benzoyl peroxide product you get.

"When using benzoyl peroxide gel, try to avoid strong sunlight as much as possible," Dr. Saleki continued. "Use oil-free sunscreen, or at least SPF30 moisturizer or foundation."

Anthelios XL Ultra Light Fluid SPF 50+ 50ml, £16.50, La Roche-Posay at Feel Unique

Pure physical protection SPF50 50ml, £27.20, NeoStrata from Zest Beauty

360° Sunscreen Gel Oil-Free SPF 50 – 50ml, £22.30, Amazon Heliocare

High protection tinted SPF 50+ compact, £24, Avène looks great

"I usually recommend using it in the morning-using tretinoin at night, such as tretinoin, which will help increase the absorption of BPO," Dr. Sam said.

However, for best results, you should also review a wider range of skin care routines. "Beauty products are one of the most common causes of worsening adult acne," said Dr. Friedman. "Moisturizers and sunscreens, especially cosmetics that are too thick and greasy, can clog pores and cause acne. Switch to oil-free alternatives and use them cautiously. If you are confused about treatment options, you can visit Stratum Dermatology Clinics online Acne assessment gets further recommendations.

If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, or those taking certain prescriptions, benzoyl peroxide is not recommended, which is why it is important to talk to a pharmacist when buying products containing benzoyl peroxide. You should also perform a patch test on the product before use to ensure that allergic reactions will not occur.

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