Pack Your Towel Mate, We're Going to the Beach | Office Magazine

2022-10-01 11:17:03 By : Ms. Tracy Lei

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With the SS23 collection, creative director of Burberry, Riccardo Tisci creates an ode to the beach and the communities forming during the summer months. Considering the weird weather changes happening next to the (British) sea, the collection is all about layering and maritime hints - fishnets, bucket hats, light overcoats, bodysuits, and functional bags.

The collection features swimwear-Esque bodysuits, cut-out trench coats, extenuated fishnet maxi dresses, and exposing yet sophisticated onesies layered under short satin dresses and oversize blazers. Even if Burberry's menswear is heavily dominated by traditional tailoring, Tisci blends in genderfluid elements such as frilly tulle skirts with streetwear inspired, box shaped crew necks and suit jackets.

With an increased desire for labels with authentic origin stories and uncompromising quality, experts a new wave of the everyday luxury item. We've seen the surge of the casual ever-so...

This week, iconic denim label Wrangler released an inspired collaboration with Grammy award-winning recording artist, Leon Bridges.

The Texan’s soulful personal style blends effortlessly with the brand’s profound roots in Western culture, and so it’s no surprise that their continued partnership has produced a collection of clothing that transcends the already high standards of the legendary denim label.

Drawing on silhouettes from Wrangler’s archive, Bridges worked closely with the design team to curate the collection. Born from a fusion of Leon’s passion for vintage pieces and Wrangler’s unwavering desire for the highest quality denim, the collection uses powerful graphics and prints, custom laser designs and exclusive embroideries to add a tailored touch to the label that Bridges launched his music career wearing.

By way of an exclusive New York Fashion Week event, which later featured an intimate private performance by ‘Mr Wrangler’ himself, Bridges and the Wrangler team behind the project talked those in attendance through the process — from the early discussions in Ft. Worth, Texas and how the collaboration came about, down to the intricate personal touches that Bridges instilled on the line.

No creative stone was left unturned as they ensured that every inch of the garments was carefully considered. A monogram composed of Leon Bridges’ initials is featured throughout, appearing on an embroidered sleeve monogram and printed pocketing. Bridges steered away from the traditional silver finishes and instead opted for matte gold ‘LB’ embossed hardware to compliment his style.

Despite their 75-year history and a refusal to stray from their heritage, Wrangler is by no means stuck in the past. Alongside the denim staples like men’s and women’s jeans, shirts, jackets, and skirts, an NFT of Bridges' digitally animated dance moves was unveiled and sold via online auction.

You can check out the collection in full here.

“There are always ten different women in my collection (as well as ten men), ” says Iceberg Creative Director James Long. “ I create it but it is people who choose how they want to interpret it. ” And Spring/Summer '23 is truly open to interpretation.

Focusing on the idea of offering fludity and freedom of expression to all, Long has created a collection that pulls from a wide array of aesthetic references and ranges in texture and color palate — featuring denimwear that does justice to '90s Iceberg archives we all know and love, anime-inspired tracksuits, bombers with a vintage feel, edgy new logo stilettos and more. 

Inspired by "traveling without moving", Long's draws on a global experience in the designs that transport the wearer from the tropics to a concert in the city to the tundra. There's truly a look for everyone here, and we're all eager to mix and match our way along.

Grand Collection isn't like other New York skate brands, and the runway show for their Winter ’22 collection was proof of that. With a refined color palette comprising of forest greens, deep blues and earthy beige tones, the collection elevates our preconceived notion of what skatewear can be with velour tracksuits and cozy quarter zips, just in time for fall.

True to his nature, founder Ben Oleynik used his debut runway show as an opportunity to help those in need, fusing the fashion show with the brand’s fourth annual food drive. In an unassuming loft on Broadway, the New York skate and fashion communities came together with their non-perishable food items to view the new collection. Not something you see during a typical season.

office spoke with Ben about his design process, where the proceeds of the drive went and why, and how he envisions a future where skate style and luxury fashion can find common ground.

Why did you decide to do a runway show?

Every year we do a food drive and fundraiser with our winter collection to help New Yorkers in need during the holidays. For this year I started thinking about ways we could make the food drive bigger. I know a lot of people who would like to attend runway shows but don’t have access to them. So I thought, what if we do a runway show, invite everyone, no gatekeeper shit, but to attend, everyone has to bring food to donate.

You always see fashion brands take inspiration from skate brands. I loved the idea of flipping that and making a runway show, but in our own way: having all my friends walk in it who had never walked in a show before, having my dad walk in it, having a stack of food donations by the door when you first entered the space. In the front row, there were buyers from skate shops sitting directly beside buyers from luxury department stores.

I feel like people really got it. I had so many people come up to me after the show and say “I’ve never seen a skate brand do a runway show” or “I’ve never seen a runway show that was a food drive”. It was amazing.

What was the design process like for this collection?

I’m trying to elevate the craftsmanship, fabrics, fit, with every season. The collections are finally developing into what I always wanted: well-crafted track suits, Harrington jackets, collared sweatshirts. I’m always thinking about what me and my family and friends want to wear. What pieces do they need for the different aspects of their life: skating, skate trips, non-skate trips, chilling at home, taking their partner out for a nice dinner, you know.

Do you think runway shows will, or should, become a more common way for skate brands to display their collections?

Everyone should do what feels right to them. Whether it’s a skate brand or not, it’s really up to each individual designer and what they’re trying to accomplish. It’s all about your intention. If they have a creative idea or a fundraising idea or whatever that involves a runway show, then do it.

For us, I really enjoyed putting my friends and the pieces we make together in the context of a runway show. Typically, the pieces made by skate brands are seen as less important than those made by high fashion brands. But by putting our pieces on the runway and in that context forces you to focus on them and the people wearing them in a more thoughtful, elevated way.

This was the fourth annual food drive. Do you feel an obligation to do more than just create clothing?

The work is more meaningful if it’s about more than just clothing. I think as a designer you need to have a rationale for the designs you’re creating, and also a rationale for how you see the world and the way you want to impact it. You have to tie those things together. The people you get to create with and the community around you and how you can impact the world together. That comes first. The clothing is secondary.

Do you plan on more runway shows in the future?

I loved doing this one. If I have another concept that involves a runway show, I would definitely do another one. I’m so grateful for everyone that helped make this last show happen. So many people contributed in huge ways. Because of the show, we were able to donate more food than any other year, so I’m definitely open to doing more.

The clothes are a lot less graphic-heavy than most skate brands. Is that an intentional attempt to separate yourself?

No, it’s just what I like aesthetically. I’ve always been drawn to brands like classic Jil Sander and Prada. Functional, elegant, clean. There are definitely some graphic tees out there that I love. We need to make a few more of them actually. But, artistically our design language is pure and minimal.

Your wife, Marianne, is largely involved in Grand Collection. Has family always been something that drives the brand?

There would be no Grand without Marianne. My family is an influence on everything I do. Thinking about my family and friends is always part of the design process and then bringing the collections to life. Whether that’s the goose designs which are an ode to my hometown in Canada, or me and the homies going on a filming trip to Tokyo or having my dad walk in the show with all my New York family. The people in my life are central to each concept.

What are your goals for Grand Collection moving forward?

Continuing to create things I love, with people that I love, and contribute to the things that we are passionate about.

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